In the winter of 2002 we, together with our friends, planned
a trip to the beautiful Kunene region of northern Namibia . This remote and sparsely populated area had
many beautiful things to offer. Besides the peace and quiet that we needed, the attractions included the Epupa falls, and the elusive desert elephants. There also was another irresistible attraction
for the men and their 4 x 4 machines; the infamous and extreme van Zyl’s pass
or DR3703, rated as one of the five most dangerous roads in the world.
This extreme road is not really a road, but merely a route
over a mountain made by travellers over time.
A lead-up of 10-15 km of tough driving brings you to this outrageously
steep and narrow pass, a pure adrenaline rush for the off-road driver.
At the time I was thankfully unaware of this rating, and
although I was usually quite adventurous, there seemed too many factors out of
my control on this pass. I resisted the
men and tried to get them to abandon the idea of travelling the pass. It soon became clear that I was on the losing
end of this battle and the male ego prevailed; if other men and their machines could
do it, so could they.
I didn’t take that easily and decided to distance me from
this folly. In my opinion this was
unnecessary, as there was a safer alternative, albeit longer and less direct road
to our next destination.
In the weeks before we departed on this trip I had many
nightmares about this treacherous pass. It
allowed only one way traffic and had to be travelled from east to west, because
it offered no opportunity to turn a vehicle around. I panicked with the thought that somebody might
ignore this rule and meet us face to face! There was after all no police in
this area to enforce any laws. I was
overwhelmed by many ‘what ifs’, many of them not unfounded. What if our vehicles slipped or rolled down
that mountain? Recovering a vehicle from
that remote location would, at the very least, have been extremely expensive,
if not impossible. We also didn’t have the necessary and specialised insurance
for this. What if we got flat tyres on the steepest and roughest sections? I had doubts about the men’s driving skills
and their abilities to deal with a mechanical breakdown. There would be no help anywhere nearby and no
mobile phone reception….and so the list went on and on….
At some stage I considered putting my hiking boots on and
walking the road, ignoring their dangerous attempts. I selfishly and foolishly thought that I
would then be in control of my own fate.
As if I would have been able to ignore it if any of them, or a vehicle,
came in harm’s way!
But this was not to be, for when we reached rough and rock
strewn bits, where all resemblance to a road totally disappeared, it proved to
be very difficult to walk as well.
By then I also realised I was an integral part of the team
to get ourselves and the vehicles safely over this pass. On reaching these seemingly impassable spots,
the road was first inspected and the biggest holes filled with stones. Then, one vehicle at a time, engaging the
lowest gear, the driver would inch forward, while the rest of the team closely
watched and anticipated the ground clearance.
It was our job to report to the driver on how to avoid the undercarriage
from getting stuck on the rocks and the tyres from being slashed by sharp
stones.
Nobody could have been more relieved to reach to end of that
13 km pass after 5 hours of intense driving!
Despite all my misgivings, this most treacherous journey had a happy
ending; not a single flat tyre or any damage to any vehicle (my nervous system
excluded)!
As we descended the beautiful vista of the Marienfluss valley
(ancient glacial valley) below was a most welcome reward for this stressed traveller.
Soon my friends will be leaving for Spain to walk the Camino de
Santiago for MSA. They too have many
doubts in their abilities to cope with the great distances of between 500 km to
780 km; will they be hampered by blisters or other physical problems, will they
find a place to sleep at the end of a hard day of hiking, will they be able to
sleep when sharing the hostel type accommodations with other snorers, will
there be bed bugs, will they and their belongings be safe…
Now, on this most difficult journey of my life, I share with them what I have learned thus far; I am not in control, and cannot possibly
control everything. I mustn’t look
up at the mountain and think it insurmountable, but rather take one step at a time and fill the holes with stones as I
go along.
‘That doubt sees the obstacles, and faith sees the way. Doubt sees the darkest night. Faith sees the day.’
Buen Camino to Emilene, Eddie, Susan, Gerda and Esther!
Buen Camino to Emilene, Eddie, Susan, Gerda and Esther!
